Roagna Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti 2013 (75cl)Roagna
" The Asili vineyard was purchased in 1961, and today the youngest vines are 80 years old. This is the central part of the cru, or what Luca Roagna calls the most "classic" part of the vineyard site. In a series of three old-vine Barbaresco expressions, ordered according to growing level of intensity, the 2013 Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti is the first wine we tasted together. The bouquet here is nuanced and delicate with an evident mineral signature that is followed by ever-increasing—but extremely elegant throughout—berry fruit and blue flower aromas. The wine covers the palate fully, remaining light, firm and tense throughout. The Roagna family traces its genetic roots to Barbaresco (as opposed to Barolo) and these wines are of enormous symbolic importance to them. Consequently, they are a point of pride among those who so passionately collect them and put them aside to age in their cellars." - Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (Jun 2019)
The estate’s traditional and classic style has also been carefully passed between the generations. Roagna is one of Piedmont’s traditional producers and has a reputation for premium quality wines, whilst also being an innovator.
The estate practices organic viticulture and Luca intends to establish full biodiversity in its soil and to follow permaculture principles. Grasses and cover crops that grow between the vines aren’t mowed or ploughed, providing a natural compost for the vines. Luca demonstrates the utmost respect for his land, with old vines, massale selection, and biodiversity at the core of his approach. Roagna’s approach to viticulture is deeply personal and draws inspiration from many sources, from Rudolph Steiner to Masanobu Fukuoka.
The Roagna winemaking approach applies the submerged cap vinification for at least 60 days. This is an incredibly gentle process which results in elegant and finessed wines. This tender, long and slow winemaking approach can see maceration vary in time from 60 to 90 days, depending on the wine and vintage.
Roagna’s wines are released later than most in Piedmont, spending between five and eight years in cask. One of Luca’s most impactful changes to the estate’s winemaking approach was to introduce the highest quality French oak casks that are 10cm thick; twice that of a standard cask. These thicker casks enable an unhurried micro-oxygenation, which enhances the elegance of the finished product.
Long ageing, wild yeast and long macerations capture the essence of their terroir, which is expressed in the bottle. Roagna produces deep, complex and structured wines that are built to age, and cellaring is generously rewarded. These are beguiling, intense and soulful wines.